7 pm, Chandni Chowk, Delhi.
The enthusiasm for putting work behind them is telling on the faces of those who gather in this bustling area of the national capital. Traces of tiredness blur into smiles as Delhi readies itself for what few call ‘the hour of madness’. After all, 7 pm marks the beginning of a show.
In a few seconds from now, spherical deep-fried shells will line the counters of the various chaat (savoury snacks) outlets. Potatoes and onions will be diced with finesse, and then waltz into these puris. Tamarind chutney (a kind of spread) will rain down on the mix adding its flavour. While one outlet witnesses this act, another watches as dollops of butter wear their dancing shoes as they glide onto the stage that is aloo paratha (flatbread filled with potato). The dance is seamless.
The audience too is obliging — generous with their praise, demanding an encore. Plates upon plates of chole bhature (a curry made with chickpeas and spices, eaten with deep-fried…